My husband and I took a much needed 3-week vacation to Thailand back in April. We both were burning out, and the last time we’d travelled just for ourselves was three years ago when we got engaged.
Having that much time off allowed us to explore (and eat!) our way across Thailand at our own pace. We spent two days in Bangkok before travelling north to Chang Mai, which we loved so much that we stayed an extra day. We then made our way down to historical Sukothai before flying south to enjoy island life on Kho Tao and Kho Samui.
I’ll be dedicating many future posts to our Thailand trip – it truly was incredible. But for now, let’s talk elephants.
Care for Elephants
We kicked off our time in Chang Mai with an elephant sanctuary. There are quite a few elephant sanctuaries in Thailand, but it’s still worth researching mission statements ahead of time. We wanted to support an ethical sanctuary, where elephants were living as naturally as possible and actively well-taken care of. No “performing”, riding, hooks, or chains.
We visited Elephant Nature Park, one of the oldest ethical elephant sanctuaries in Thailand (read their mission statement here). It’s like a retirement home for rescued elephants. We chose the full-day option of their Care for Elephants project, which helps rehab rescued elephants that still rely on human interaction by inviting guests to participate in their daily feeding, walking, and bathing rituals. And hanging out with elephants for a day was a no-brainer for us.
We were part of a group of six. Ben, who launched Care for Elephants in 2015, was our host for the day. After picking us all up from our hotels and shepherding us to the Park, he and his colleagues introduced us to Sai Thong, Mae Dok, and Thad Dao, the three female elephants involved in the project. All three were rescued from logging and elephant riding.
I’ve never been up close to an elephant before. You know it’s going to be an experience, but there’s nothing like having three come right up to you with their trunks outstretched to suddenly make you feel very small.
A day with Sai Thong, Mae Dok, and Thad Dao
Feeding
We started our day by feeding Sai Thong, Mae Dok, and Thad Dao banana leaves, fruit, and rice banana balls.
As we fed them, the staff told us about their personalities. Mae Dok (with the tusks) was the leader. Thad Dao often eats the others’ food if they’re not quick enough. Sai Thong could be a bit cranky sometimes but loves her friends.
I fed Tad Dao riceball after riceball (there’s nothing like putting your hand up to an elephant’s mouth to get acquainted) and all remaining intimidation disappeared. I don’t know how to explain it, but they all gave off a calming energy in spite of their past experiences. We know about elephants’ social and emotional intelligence, but it’s something else to look one in the eye and feel it.
Walking
After eating, it was time to walk. We were given bags of bananas to offer Sai Thong, Mae Dok, and Thad Dao both as a snack and incentive to keep walking with us. They were led out of the feeding area and we all walked down to the forest path together.
As we walked through the forest and towards our eventual lunch spot, we learned more about our elephant friends’ previous lives. Coming out of logging and the tourist trade, they all had scars. Sai Thong in particular had a big rough bald patch on her back from years of wearing a saddle.
It worked out that I walked next to either Mae Dok or Thad Dao most of the way. And I couldn’t help but talk to them. Maybe I was going crazy in the humidity, or I was just in awe of these big animals, but I really thought they understood me. I’d offer a banana, ask them how they were doing, tell them I was excited about lunch, wonder aloud about whether it would rain, offer another banana…
Eventually, we left our elephants to forage a bit while we hiked up a hill to our lunch spot. We ate surrounded by a canopy of trees with a view of the mountains. Not a bad way to take a break.
Bathing
This was, quite literally, the coolest part of the day. The staff coaxed the elephants into the river, and we all grabbed buckets, waded in, and splashed the elephants with water. Honestly, at times it was more water fight than elephant bath time.
But as the water washed away more and more mud, we saw the full extent of Sai Thong, Mae Dok, and Thad Dao’s scars. They were all over their heads, backs, and legs. And I realized that marveling at being in a river with them almost made me forget why we were there in the first place. We weren’t just there to have fun with rescued elephants – we were helping rescued elephants have a normal life again.
Touring the rest of the Park
After the river, we slowly made our way back to the Nature Park. We’d stop whenever the elephants wanted to stop, and at one point, Sai Thong decided she needed a break from us and wandered off (she rejoined us later).
When we returned, we changed into dry clothes and toured the rest of the Park. While we had been able to be close to Sai Thong, Mae Dok, and Thad Dao, this was the part of the visit where we observed from a distance.
We saw facilities for elephants needing consistent medical care, like those with badly broken or dislocated ankles and hips. Our guide told us the injury stories – a logging accident, forced breeding, a landmine, tight chains, tourist rides. Then, we saw areas for baby elephants to play, and walked through open fields where various groups could graze and roam and be.
Reflecting on the day
I ended the day feeling way too many emotions. I was angry at humanity, hopeful about the future of the Park and its elephants, sad about the injured elephants, overwhelmed at the thought of how many abused elephants around the world would never find a place like this.
As an advocate, it’s sometimes too easy to wonder what the point of trying to change the world really is. But Elephant Nature Park reminded me that we do what we can, however we can, for as long as we can (to paraphrase John Wesley). We may not be able to do everything, but we can always do something. And since the ’90s, this place has been doing something truly special.
Saying goodbye to Sai Thong, Mae Dok, and Thad Dao felt weird. I never expected to bond with three random elephants in my lifetime, but it happened. And being able to play a very small part in their recovery made me appreciate the passion and dedication of the entire Elephant Nature Park staff. They work with these elephants every single day, helping them heal and believing they “respond better to love than they can to bull hooks.”
We’ve all experienced moments in life when we have to remind ourselves to pay attention because we may never get that moment again. I just never thought that one of mine would involve elephants.
Check out Elephant Nature Park‘s website for more information on visiting, volunteering, and donating.